Kunbi saree is a significant and culturally important textile associated with Goa. It celebrates the region’s rich weaving traditions. Kunbi saree has become a significant symbol
Legislators, including the Chief Minister, sporting the ‘Kunbi’ stoles and caps during the monsoon session of the Goa legislative assembly on the occasion of the 11th National Handloom Day on last Thursday, though amusing, served to be a timely reminder of the importance that ought to be accorded to the region’s rich weaving traditions.
As an occasion celebrating Goa’s rich heritage, this ‘symbolic observation’ by the lawmakers in the assembly could be interpreted as a unique way to honour the state’s cultural identity and promote the local handloom industry. It is claimed that the Indian handloom industry is one of the oldest and most vibrant cottage industries globally.
According to DD News, Indian weavers have long been known for their expertise in hand-spinning, weaving and printing skills. They are located in small towns and villages across the country where skills are passed down to the next generations.
The handloom sector played a vital role in India’s freedom movement. The Swadeshi Movement launched on August 7, 1905, championed indigenous industries, especially handlooms, as a form of economic resistance to colonial rule. “In honour of this legacy, August 7 was declared National Handloom Day in 2015 and is observed to recognise the weaving community’s contribution to the nation’s socio-economic development, and renew our collective resolve to preserve and promote India’s handloom heritage.” (DD News)
India’s handloom sector is known for its wide range of fabrics with every region in India having developed its unique handloom style. Just as ‘Bandhani’ is a prominent tie-and-dye textile tradition in Rajasthan, the Kunbi saree is a significant and culturally important textile associated with Goa. It celebrates the region’s rich weaving traditions.
The ‘Kunbis’ are an indigenous tribal community in Goa, known for their long history as early settlers and their distinct cultural traditions, particularly their unique Kunbi sarees and dances. They were primarily agricultural labourers, and their attire reflected their lifestyle.
The traditional saree was worn by the Kunbi tribal women before the advent of the Portuguese in the 16th century. This saree was made of thickly woven cotton with distinctive checks. It was typically worn short, above the ankles, tied at the shoulder with a knot, and originally without a blouse.
The natural dye used for these sarees was created from locally available ingredients like rice kanji (starch), vinegar and iron ore. Featuring minimalistic, ethnic geometric patterns, these sarees, especially in red and blue, have been worn for generations.
The Kunbi saree has become a significant symbol, deeply rooted in the community’s identity and history. However, this attire, along with their traditional customs, became less popular with the younger generation adopting modern clothing. Over the years, changing fashion trends and the saree’s association with a specific caste identity saw a decline in its popularity.
People forget traditional crafts due to a combination of factors including modernisation, globalisation, economic pressures and changing cultural values. Mass-produced goods often replace handmade items, and younger generations may be less inclined to learn traditional crafts as they pursue more lucrative or modern careers. Moreover, the economic viability of traditional crafts can be challenging, leading artisans to seek alternative income sources.
But now, handloom fabrics are experiencing resurgence due to their inherent sustainability, cultural significance and unique artistry, which resonate with a growing consumer desire for eco-friendly and ethically produced fashion. Reviving handloom also helps preserve traditional weaving skills, support artisan livelihood and promote a more sustainable and equitable fashion industry.
Some prominent fashion designers from the state are known for their efforts to ‘resuscitate’ this traditional attire which was on the verge of ‘extinction’ and making it a fashion statement in the modern era.
The ‘Woven Tradition’ exhibition organised at Big Foot, Loutolim, in 2006, was all about celebrating the timeless beauty and legacy of the Kunbi weave. Admittedly one of the leading cultural hubs in the state, the Big Foot is dedicated to conserving and promoting Goan culture.
With innovations it was also ‘discovered’ that the woven material could be repurposed into various items like jackets, blouses, skirts and other clothing items. The handwoven cotton fabric known for its chequered patterns and durability, it was found, is well-suited for creating a range of handcrafted products beyond the saree itself.
It was at a function at the Big Foot in Loutolim a few years back that for the first time I witnessed the practice of honouring personages by draping a ‘Kunbi stole’ around their
necks.
The custom of incorporating local traditions into welcoming ceremonies at state functions has been widely accepted and signifies respect for local culture and customs when receiving dignitaries. Whenever a way to blend formality with a sense of place and tradition is thought of, the Kunbi fabric comes readily to one’s mind.
Goans generally perceive tradition as a dynamic and inclusive part of their identity. Perhaps that explains why the Kunbi weave, once worn by the tribal women, has been lovingly revived to celebrate and preserve the essence of their roots. It is now heard that the Kunbi fabric is gaining unprecedented popularity in the state and will very soon have its own GI tag.
(Pachu Menon is a senior columnist and author based in Goa.)