‘From Chul to Hob’, a cookbook by Zurich-based Goan Dulce Fernandes, reinvents Goan culinary traditions to keep them alive
Christine MACHADO | NT BUZZ
Back when she was a youngster, Dulce Fernandes decided that cooking wasn’t for her. “I remember once when my mum ordered an expensive cookbook from Reader’s Digest after much insistence from my younger sister. I tried the spinach soufflé recipe from the book but had no patience to follow the instructions to the T,” she recalls. The soufflé was a disaster and her sister and she fed it to a stray dog outside their gate. “The dog ate it and immediately vomited. It was both hilarious and disappointing,” she laughs.
It was only in her mid-30s that Fernandes returned to cooking with renewed passion. “I wanted to start fresh, care for myself and eat well. So cooking became an act of self-love to provide healthy, home-cooked meals for myself and my child,” she shares. “By my late 30s, I began to enjoy the process.”
When she started cooking seriously, Fernandes, who moved to Switzerland 16 years ago, began with European cuisine, which was simpler. “But somewhere, nostalgia caught up with me. Being part of many Goan online groups, I decided to experiment with Goan cuisine, starting with Goan breads,” she says.
Now, aiming to encourage more people to cook at home rather than relying on food delivery apps, Fernandes has authored her first cookbook, ‘From Chul to Hob’, expected to release in early 2026. Pre-orders are already open.
Among the many chapters is one dedicated entirely to variations of Goa’s staple dish, ‘xitt kodi’ (rice and curry). “There’s a lot of misinformation about ‘xitt kodi’ being unhealthy, with concerns about coconut’s calories or rice’s sugar content. Many Goans are switching to millets and other grains instead,” she explains. However, she believes ‘xitt kodi’ can be a balanced meal. “Rice provides carbs, coconut curry supplies fat that reduces insulin spikes from the carbs, fish gives protein, and vegetables add fibre,” she says.
When prepared properly, she says, ‘xitt kodi’ suits modern diets. “Using different rice varieties to reduce starch, rinsing rice to remove excess starch, steaming vegetable fogad with coconut without extra oil or grilling fish instead of frying, all these can cut calories,” she explains. The chapter features 22 variations of the orange curry, from sorak, lady fingers with prawns, ripe mango with fish, to dry fish dishes.
The book also suggests good ingredient substitutes. Some are common, like red wine vinegar for Goan vinegar or balsamic vinegar for tamarind. “Others come from my taste experiments in other cuisines. For example, pomegranate molasses works well instead of kokum in many dishes. For pork solantulem, I recommend unsweetened dried cranberries,” says Fernandes.
When it comes to deciding the substitute for a particular fish, the colour and the texture of the flesh of the fish plays an important role, she says. “For example, monkfish is a good alternative to our shark fish recipes and makes ambotik and guisado at least as tasty if not tastier.”
Another chapter includes her grandmother’s recipes. “This section has old Goan, very Portuguese-influenced dishes my grandmother made for us as kids. I tried replicating many from memory and later found her handwritten cookbook, though it lacked precise measurements,” says Fernandes. She also drew inspiration from cookbooks like ‘Goan Cookbook’ by Joyce Fernandes, ‘Livro de Cozinha Goesa’ by Carlota Mesquita Correira, Alves Fernandes’ food blog and videos by chef Khabir Moraes.
To add variety, the book includes international recipes and fusion cuisine. “While putting together the recipes for the book, I casually asked some pre-order customers if they had a specific Goan favourite so I could include that. Some told me that they were looking for something beyond just Goan recipes. So the book also includes my global favourites which I have picked from my travels and experimented in my kitchen, a variety of bakes, and Goan fusion recipes,” she says.
Beyond cooking, Fernandes faced challenges with paper quality, printing costs and finding a graphic designer in Goa who understood her vision. “It was hard to find creative professionals familiar with international coffee table cookbook trends. But I finally found a young designer in Goa who’s realising the book as I imagined and adding his own creative touch,” she says. The hardcover book will be printed on high-quality satin gloss pages.
“My cookbook is rooted in tradition but reimagined for today’s needs,” says Fernandes. Preparation time is reduced by grinding base masalas in advance, which can be stored for three months or more. Spice levels and calories are lowered to suit modern tastes. “This book is for beginners looking to build confidence in cooking healthy meals,” she explains. “It provides a hassle-free cooking experience with food that’s enjoyable both to the taste buds and the body.”