The Shirgao zatra is an age-old tradition celebrated in honour of the goddess who, along with her devotees, walked over fire to save the village from being destroyed
RAMESH SAVAIKAR
Shirgao Zatra is one of the most famous and unique festivals celebrated in Goa with great devotion, immense zeal, excitement and faith in Devi Lairai. It is celebrated on the fifth day of the bright half (Panchami tithi of shukla Paksha) of Hindu Vaishakha month. This year, the zatra will be celebrated on Monday,
April 24.
The main feature of this zatra is of the dhonds who walk barefoot on hot coal, and observe ‘vrata’ for five days prior to the zatra. This act of faith and devotion symbolises the triumph of good over evil. Known as ‘Agnidivya’, thousands of ‘Vratashth Dhonds’ and devotees from across Goa, the Konkan region (Maharashtra) and Belagavi (Karnataka) throng to Shirgao to be part of the zatra and witness the spectacular event.
Lairai devi, a mystical goddess, is believed to have arrived in Goa over 500 years ago, accompanied by her seven siblings, riding atop an elephant. Their journey is shrouded in mystery and legend but their impact on Goan culture and tradition is still visible today.
According to local folklore, the ‘danavas’ (demons) wanted to set fire to Shirgao in an attempt to destroy both Lairai and her devotees. But Lairai and her devotees walked over the fire and extinguished it. The zatra is a remembrance of this.
The entire village is engaged in preparation for a month in advance. The villagers strictly follow a vegetarian regimen and practice cleanliness. Devotees from different villages, who observe the five days of fast, are required to take a bath every time before consuming food or fruits. They also reside near a natural source of water away from their homes.
On the day prior to the zatra, a high heap of wood is arranged at a specific place in the village near a banyan tree. On the day, ‘devas’ and ‘mahajans’, known as Chowgule, begin the traditional rituals in the temple after performing rituals at the adhisthana of the deity, situated on a hillock known as ‘mudder’. The ‘Vratashth dhonds’ then take a holy dip in the lake, offer prayers and then go to the temple to offer jasmine flowers to the deity. Offering these fragrant buds is a traditional compulsion for the ‘dhonds’. Later, they encircle the ‘homkand’ (burning wood) five times.
The ‘dhonds’ are dressed in traditional attire which includes ‘dhoti’ (sovale) with red fetas (turban) and a vetachi kathi (a special hard cane) in their hand. They dance to the beats of the dhol and tashe near the temple. A devotee in spirit with the idol of the deity lights the heap of wood. Around midnight, the hot embers are then spread on the ground for the actual fire walk. The ‘dhonds’ walk barefoot on the hot embers, chanting ‘Lairai mata ki jai’ and ‘Saibini mata ki jay’.
This act by the ‘dhonds’ is what is referred to as ‘Agnidivya’, an act of penance towards and devotion to the deity.
To witness the display of faith and devotion is an experience of rich and vibrant culture, which has been passed down through several
generations.
Coming together irrespective of religion and caste reflects the religious harmony and unity in our region. This practice is seen as a way of proving one’s faith and seeking blessings from the deity for prosperity and happiness. It is a mesmerising spectacle to witness and be part of the spirituality of a different kind at Shirgao.
Like every other zatra or feast there is an array of stalls that are set up. From toys to local ‘khaje’, you can find everything here. But non-vegetarian items are banned out of respect and devotion for the deity.
Each year, the Shirgao Zatra attracts a huge crowd of people from across the state and now, tourists too.