Sanjeev V Sardesai
Ensconced between the River Mandovi in the South, the River Chapora in the North, the Arabian Sea to the West and Bicholim Taluka to the East, is the taluka of Bardez.
Many people surmise that the etymology of ‘Bardez’ is owing to the existence of twelve major villages or ‘Bara-Desh’; just like ‘Sattari’ was once made up of 70 (sattar) villages; and Salcete or ‘Saxtti’ where the ‘sasshast’ (66) Saraswat clans had settled.
The Bardez taluka is approachable from the capital Panaji by crossing the River Mandovi via the two bridges or a scenic ferry ride to Betim. Bardez is the most vibrant of the twelve talukas of Goa, and is the host to wonderful assets and locations that are frequented by a hundred thousand visitors – local and foreign.
Gifted with a long stretch of beaches along the shores of Arabian Sea, the strip of villages – Candolim, Calangute, Baga, Vagator and Anjuna are the hotspots of world’s entertainment seekers. Driving along the roads and narrow village lanes in this entire taluka, a visitor shall encounter many places of interest. One can encounter even a couple of islands, connected by a set of unique bridges.
The main town Mapusa is the destination that one should head for. Parking your vehicle here can be a learning experience, as this town is the main hub for the entire North Goa. The Friday market is famous and one can get every item – from a pin to a cow– on sale here. The Mapusa market is undoubtedly the most well designed market in Goa, with every occupation compartmentalised. Though presently, the extension of people selling wares from fruits to clothes to antiques has created chaos, the Mapusa Market is one place that every visitor to Goa should visit and carry some of the most memorable souvenirs and memories back.
The credit of constructing this market goes to the famous medical practitioner from Porvorim Antonio Pinto do Rosario, who was the mayor of the Camara Municipal or the Mapusa Municipal Council. On his visit to Portugal, he had observed such a well-planned market and decided to implement the similar layout in Mapusa. Sadly, the commemoration plate bearing his name lies hidden behind a huge board on the complex’s front facing wall.
The entrance was designed as an entry gate to a palatial province with beautiful terracotta relief of Goan occupations adorning the walls; these form a photogenic background for a picture. Once a visitor enters the huge portals of this market, he or she is presented with a wonderful artistic display of a statue of Shakuntala the Indian mythological beauty, holding her pot of water and sitting atop a small mound in the company of deer. This is an iconic image of the city of Mapusa.
Some of the most prominent Goan trading houses are found in Mapusa, be it the hardware at Pankar’s or Bhairao; or the jewellery at Shirodkar’s or Salkar’s. Be it the Goan sweets like the bebinca, doce (sweet made of gram flour), pinagre, ghons (sweetened tender coconut strips) at St Francis Bakery or Goan wines and liqueurs at Pedro Vincente Vaz (PVV); or the sausages or masala bombil (Bombay ducks) at Souza’s or the amazing ‘khaja’ and traditional Namkeens at Keni’s Sweet Mart; Mapusa caters to the palate of all – especially Goans.
In fact one should prompt the owner of Keni Sweet Mart for the ‘jaggery khotkhote’! The taste brings back nostalgic memories of an era gone by. While many other established traders contribute to the glory of Mapusa, a visitor’s tour of Goa is never complete, if this place is skipped.
Goan photographer Asavari Kulkarni’s book ‘Markets of Goa’ mentions many unique markets held in Mapusa. Besides the famous Friday market, the other traditional markets held here are Purumentacho’ Bazaar, the Soryacho (Liquor) Bazaar, the Makar-Sankranti Market, Matoli Market during Ganesh Chaturthi and the much lesser known Zoone (old) Chor Market.
This town still retains the old charm in many of its well spread out precincts and wards. The Gram Daivat or the local deity is Sri Bodgeshwar who commands a strategic temple shrine at the entrance of this town towards its South. Many may not know that this age-old shrine boasts of one of the most visited festivals the Bondgini Jatra and is named after the short palm-like cluster shrubs with spiky long leaves known as the Bodgi trees, which thrive just behind this shrine along the banks of a small rivulet.
You are officially in Mapusa when you encounter the roundabout with the bust of the Father of the Nation at the Gandhi Chowk, immediately after the Sri Bodgeshwar Shrine. Further down the road is the Hanuman Natyagriha, once a prominent hub of cultural activities and nataks. Today this stage is covered with metal plates and coconut leaves and is converted into a prestigious art hall.
The Sri Maruti Temple is situated right opposite this hall, across the Chattrapati Shivaji Chowk. This temple has a long history and a huge following that attracts a massive surge of devotees on Saturdays.
Until a few years ago, the Asilo Hospital catered to the sick of the entire region, till the District Hospital made its presence felt. Many have forgotten the one Goan doctor honoured for his contribution to cancer research – Ernest Borges, whose statue stands in the Asilo precinct.
The Municipal Garden is well kept and till recently had a sound system which played light music in the evening. Many elderly settlers of Mapusa shall remember the most awaited dances held in this garden during Christmas, New Year and other prominent days.
The presiding deity of this town is Sri Shantadurga and her temple is presently located at Dhargalim, across River Chapora in Pernem taluka. The idol was shifted there during the religious persecution. However, it is said that her original temple was located at the base of the Camara Hillock, near PVV Building, where a ling was found around late 1970’s and a shrine is erected at the location now. It is said that there was a huge temple of Sri Shantadurga here, and its lake extended to the present taxi stand opposite Sirsat Building. This lake was filled up by the Portuguese under the guise of the waters being polluted with the plague infected rats. Observing minutely, it is found that this is the only area that has been covered with a thick layer of concrete, possibly justifying this local theory.
The heritage trail of Mapusa and its surrounding villages in Bardez will definitely prompt many visitors to visit these lands.