By Kuheli Bhattacharya Rane
A new glass-fronted eatery has been catching the eye on Chogm road, called Jashn. Porvorim is slowly becoming the epicentre of the culinary boom in Goa with fun and interesting restaurants catering to locals and tourists alike.
Ambience: Jashn is cautiously elegant in its mustard and Gold interiors and large-gilted mirrors. Servers in orange and black along with the wood finished backed chairs make for subdued interiors. Piped Indian music adds to the ambience.
Food: the food essentially is a celebration of North Indian cuisine, think all things Punjabi and northern frontier then. The menu has such north Indian staples as the baingan bharta and the rajma chawal, along with a host of very authentic Punjabi flavours.
We began with the usual suspects of murg makhani, fish tikka, achari chicken, succulent and balanced flavours do not disappoint. The surprisingly good mutton Burra with melt in your mouth mutton chops were the winners followed closely by the creamy chicken kalmi. Served with a coleslaw kind of salad which I haven’t seen since the time we lived in Ludhiana. These self same kebabs are also served in rumali roti rolls.
For the mains we tried the malai kofta, dal makhani, butter chicken, rajma chawal. The malai kofta were sinfully living upto their name of makhan-marke goodness with its subtle sweetness of the malai. The dal makhani may not look much, since it doesn’t bear the rich dark colour one has come to expect of a ‘ma ki daal’ but even though it has far lesser black beans than I like in a dal makhani, these guys get extra points for the redolent flavours of kasoori methi and ginger juliens. The kasuri methi flavours continue on their butter chicken, again consistently tasty. Even though all the dishes are robust Punjabi flavours they did not over power in their richness, without trying to dull the regional flavours. The generous use of kasuri methi maintains authenticity without overpowering. I had mixed feelings about the rajma though, to be fair it is because of growing up with a particular taste of the dish. Nevertheless it’s a tasty rendition of a favourite, and for those who haven’t tried it before I wouldn’t hesitate recommending.
This is one of the few places which has brought the offal to the centre stage and get experimental with their brain masala and the kaleji, because what is life if not about new experiences.
The biryani is good, the accompanying raita is even better. The mutton pieces are juicy and tender, simply flaking away with the morsels of spice redolent rice. A limited dessert menu, and an even more limited drinks menu leave room for improvement.
Good clean flavours, unpretentious plating, and a uniform consistency in the quality of the food are the USP of this eatery. Sure they don’t have a liquor licence yet, and they may have a few slip ups in the service but these are things one takes in stride while they find their footing in the rich culinary scene of the state.
Ambience : 3 plates
Food : 3.5 plates
Service : 3 plates
Go here for: mutton burra, dal makhani