The ancient road of Uskai

By Rohit R Phalgaonkar

In Goa there still exist many ancient routes that once linked villages. In the Bardez taluka there is a route which bears the testimony to the travelers of yore. In the tiny village of Dhupe in Uskai is an interesting road which still bears the marks made by bullock carts which passed over it eons ago.

This ancient road that once connected the village of Pomurpha with Mapusa passes over the plateau of the Dhupe village. The wheel marks are still visible as the surface of the road is hard laterite. The broad road with bullock cart marks cutting through the laterite surface tells of the magnitude of traffic that traversed it. Locals inform that commodities ranging from laterite stones to fish were transported along this road to Mapusa and vice versa. The road now joins the main road leading to Mapusa. At the crossroad we can still find a “davarne” (load rest) standing that provided relief to the people who carried goods on their head. Another vestige of a Davarne can be seen mid way on the same road leading to Mapusa.

The road from the plateau culminates at a flight of steps chiseled out of laterite above a cave temple called the Paanch-Paandav cave. The steps are called the “Paandavaachi Paaj”. “Paaj” in Konknni refers to a way, path or a flight of steps.

The Paanch-Paandav cave is a natural laterite stone cave housing the shrine of the five Paandav brothers and their wife Draupadi along with Shri Krishna. It appears to be the only cave temple in Goa having a stone panel depicting the five Paandav brothers and Draupadi.

Another fascinating sight on the plateau is the “Bhimaachi Paavlaa” or the impression of Bhim’s feet. Bhim, one of the five Paandavs, was mighty and sturdy. They are feet impressions are natural formation on laterite surface on the bed of small stream.

It is said that during their exile the five brothers visited many parts of Goa. Interestingly, folklore among tribes still living in the forest area highlight only the life of exile lived by the Paandavs and Shri Ram. They know a very little about their royal life. Did these Indian heroes come in touch with these tribes during their exile? Perhaps folklorists could throw some light on this topic.