By Radhika Simon
Yes trouser options for women have gone multi-fold this year. Indian designers have gone a step further and as though the harem pant was not enough, they re-invented the ‘dhothii’ pant, and one key silhouette that is getting prominence is dhoti pants for women. Sorry guys, what was traditionally your drape is now gracing women’s wardrobes.

The traditional Indian dhoti for men has been adapted by women with great style and élan. The new version is more cropped and tapers towards the ankle, giving a contemporary twist to the silhouette. Leave aside several international designers who have done their takes on dhoti, even top notch desi like ace designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee has released an entire line of dhoti pants for women this time. Recently, Mumbai’s fashion ramp showed up some glorious versions of the dhoti pants. Models like Krishna Mehta and Sonalli Raol, who were happy with the extra leg room the dhoti pants offered, said, “Phew! What a relief. These pants are super relaxed.” Not to mention there being no stress of learning how to tie the dhoti. In its new avatar, with an elastic waistband, you just slip into it like a pair of pyjamas!
Why are dhoti pants such a good fashion statement? Designer Alpana Desai gives a low-down and explains, “Quite simply, it’s a re-assertion of our Indian-ness – our identity. It’s got very ethnic roots with its typically Indian silhouette and it’s always been around in one form or the other. Of course, like all other trends, it came back to us via the west, even though we did invent it. Designers abroad made the dhoti pant a style statement which is why we in India now suddenly think it’s so cool.”
Designer Chandrika Goel too points to the existence of this roomy leg-wear long before they became trendy. “Many variations of this have existed in India - right from the voluminous ones we see today, to the humble salwar.” Shyamala Varandan another fashonista agrees and adds, “It was India that gave dhoti pants to the world and this is the time to reclaim it. It is perfectly suited to the Indian body structure and to our hot climate as well.
FASHONISTA’S ADVICE
Don’t try to drape one yourself. Go out and buy yourself the ready-made version, aka the dhoti pants – the modern and convenient avatar of that most rustically Indian of all outfits.
Go for the one that you are comfortable in. It is important to pair a dhoti pant with the right kind of tops. “A fitted kurta, singlet or a jersey top goes best with a dhoti pant,” says fashion designer Rajiv Narain
The right fabric lends an appeal to the dramatic shape. As a thumb rule the fabric should be soft but not limp. “Dhoti pants in mulmul look the best,” recommends Sabyasachi Mukherjee. For a casual appeal, team it with kolhapuri chappals, sneakers or any kind of flats. Jazz up the ensemble with a small sling bag and you are ready to take on the world in style.
Dhoti pants also make for great evening wear. For evening wear you can try out gold and metallic colours and accessorise it with loads of jewellery.
Designer Puja Chotrani suggests, to get the funky look, a body hugging tee-shirt and the dhoti pants would make a great combo. To complete the look illustrative danglers and funky belts would look great.
Loose dhoti pants, which look like salwars or peg trousers, offer relaxed dressing and look trendy. Dhoti pants come with elasticised waist band or draw strings. Go for the one that you are comfortable in
WHO CAN WEAR IT? AH…THAT IS A BIG QUESTION
Speaking about the hip quotient of this garment, designers Kamala Katuria and Meera Sehgal give it the thumbs up. “This silhouette is not for short and stout girls. As the gathers around the hip area can make it look voluminous,” cautions Sehgal. But Mumbai-based designer Nisha Jamvwal admits that the dhothi pant has an over-the-top feel, and that not everyone can carry off the dress and adds, “They are the best for a relaxed, semi-formal evening and the ideal length is a little above the ankles. The ideal fabric would be muslin or a blend of cotton and silk as it gives you a nice drape.” MF