By Odette and Joe Mascarenhas
Uzbek, Sushi and Mediterranean…food from that particular region. Yes, little is known about this colourful restaurant on the beach at Ashvem where the warmth of the couple running it, Roz and Joy embraces the guests.
Oh yes…while there was heavy security for the Princess Ashi Khaendhum Dorji of Bhutan in Mumbai, she literally made the place her home even venturing into the kitchen to prepare the national dish of Bhutan…A’ma Dafse. We tried it - a cheese and chilly bean preparation - we loved it.
We were in an adventurous mood that afternoon and so decided to try the Uzbek food cooked by chef Abitov Alexander Sergeevich. Uzbek food? While I had eaten many cuisines somehow this particular cuisine had never reached our table. And so onto the table came the minty steamed momos (dumplings of lamb and cumin which have to be had with a sort of ‘raita’ – yoghurt and spring onion), Kazan kebab and the Kovurma palov - Ferghana pilaff - pilaf rice. We looked at the preparations on the table; the momos looked very similar to the Tibetan preparations, while the Kazan kebab (lamb meat with fried potato and the pilaf rice with boneless lamb) was similar to the North West Frontier food. “It is the Persian influence,” Joy explains, “but without the spices.”
He is absolutely right…tasty…the meat soft and succulent minus the spice…but chef Abitov has something up his sleeve. His special accompaniment to add the spice in your life is the green Adjica. Now this green pepper, green chilly, minty-garlic preparation is spice personified and when mixed with the preparations could cause your salivary buds to work overtime. Aha! That was what happened to me when I put that chutney into my mouth with a little of the pilaf rice. That ‘mirch’ sure knew how to tickle my taste buds. And believe me, if you are in a mood to say ‘give me red’ he has that preparation too…made of red peppers, but a little sweeter than the green. But remember, you have to ask for it. Now besides eating the food, this interactive chef showed us some of the Uzbek customs too. Green tea served in the Uzbek teacups. He pours just half…was he being miserly? No. According to tradition a half cup served means you are a friend… a full cup means you are not liked. I was glad that my cup was half full.
The second cuisine served at this delightful restaurant was the sushi. Now let me tell you about chef Kim Konstantin Gennadievich who worked at big restaurants at St Petersburg and his California rolls. That crab meat…cucumber…seaweed…and rice roll…called for one word - divine. Believe me when I say that that preparation was delightful. You perhaps would have to call to say you are dining there. Sushi food preparation being what it is, is a must try.
And the third cuisine is Mediterranean by Chef Dinesh Prasaddos. Mediterranean Pearl lamb shanks - tender lamb shanks are cooked Osobucco style - Charmoule baby seer fish with a Moroccan Marinade. Seated here one might feel you are on the white sandy beaches of Morocco...the food transports you.
Joy and Roz have also worked on some happy dining schemes with great discounts for regulars something that perhaps could be worked on by other restaurateurs towards favoured customers. Anyway while waiting for the dessert they told us how the Princess of Bhutan was so captivated by her experience here that she has invited them over to set shop there. The walnut brownie in a caramelised basket topped with vanilla ice-cream is to die for. Crunchy walnuts with pieces of caramel mixed with creamy ice-cream accompany the rich taste of the brownie. A fitting finale to a lovely afternoon. It was a novel experience on the beaches of Ashvem. And even though we mixed our cuisines we were not disappointed. A new taste, a new cuisine, one has to develop a palate for it. That is what foodies thrive on.
