Mr Dhanwant Pandit’s modest hotel in Pernem has grown from a humble beginning and continues to be popular for its ‘bhajiyas’

By Bhiva P Parab | b&c

If you are in Pernem town and want to relish some tasty ‘bhajiyas’, then Mahalaxmi hotel is the place to go. For the last two decades, this modest hotel owned by Mr Dhanwant Pandit has maintained the distinct taste of its bhajiyas which continue to be a hot favourite.

“Its the taste and quality of the bhajiyas and the approach towards the customers that matters. All these years, since I started my business of making bhajiyas, I have solely focused on quality and my customers’ interests, so my approach towards them has always been cordial. Therefore, over the years, my business has increased. We have our regular customers as well as new people who have been coming here,” says Mr Pandit.

“I only use good quality cooking oil and digestive materials such as ginger while preparing the bhajiyas. Most importantly, while serving the bhajiyas, I don’t count the number of pieces that I put into a plate, instead I fill the plate entirely, which costs only Rs 10,” he adds. 

Mr Pandit started his business in 1992. Rs 50 was all that he initially invested. “With that amount I bought whatever material was needed for making the fritters and began selling them along the roadside in Pernem. At that time I didn’t even have a kiosk. I used to carry out my business using a single table,” Mr Pandit mentions. 

“It is hard work and God’s grace which has made me successful today. I now earn handsomely through my hotel business. My wife has played an important role in its success. She has supported me at every step and still helps me in managing the hotel. It’s because of her support that I have tasted success,” emphasises Mr Pandit.

Mr Pandit toiled at a time when he hardly had any money to sustain his family. But even though he is successful today, that habit has still stuck. Everyday, his work begins around five at dawn, working along with his employees, and ends at around 8 in the evening.

“I am also grateful to my customers, especially the regular ones who come especially to savour the bhajiyas that we serve. I own my success to them,” avers Mr Pandit.

Starting out as a modest eatery in 1968, O’ Coqueiro’s popularity has soared ever since, especially for its authentic Goan Portuguese cuisine

By Abdul Wahab khan | B&C

Whenever someone asks for directions along the busy Porvorim highway, most often than not, O’ Coqueiro is always the prominent landmark that is known to everyone. 

The hotel has an interesting history. Way back in 1968, the hotel initially started out as a small eating joint and later became a modest bar and restaurant which was set up by Mr Stovio Pinto. It was later leased out to Mr Lucio Miranda and Mr Christavo Pinto. 

In 1970, the management of O’ Coqueiro Bar and Restaurant changed hands and was popularised by Chef Gines Viegas, a native of Assagao, who had returned from East Africa. O’ Coqueiro is now run by Chef Peter Fernandes, who apprenticed with the legendary Viegas. In 1997, Chef Viegas collaborated with Alcon chairman, Mr Anil Counto, who at that time invited Mr Fernandes to come aboard and run the venture. Later in 2002, when Chef Viegas passed away, Alcon acquired the restaurant, and since then Mr Fernandes has been with O’ Coqueiro, that’s nearly 23 years.

Mr Fernandes who today solely manages the hotel, admirably said, “I have been awarded the Best Chef of India in 2007-2008 in the non-hotel category by the Government of India,” while adding that O’Coqueiro has developed a reputation for serving authentic Goan Portuguese food. The name O’ Coqueiro, which means coconut tree in Portuguese, lends credence to most of the masalas that go into the preparation of its sumptuous dishes, he mentions.  

The hotel’s popular Goan cuisine is most appreciated, as most of the NRIs and locals who visit the place, rekindle fond memories as they savour various Goan dishes for which O’ Coqueiro has become famous the world over. Dishes like ‘samarachi kodi’ that is cooked using dried prawns and served with coarse rice and para (dry mackerel), ‘haad maas’ (pork bony meat) and ‘buch’ (pork guts) which is made from pork, are much sought after. The hotel also serves Goa’s traditional liquor - coconut and cashew feni.

Mr Fernandes revealed that his mentor, Chef Gines Viegas, was the first to introduce chicken cafreal in the state. “Although we are also famous for sea food and cocktails, we never discriminate among people, be it middle or higher class. Also, there’s a myth among people that we are expensive and don’t serve halal chicken which is incorrect as we never categorise our prices. When it comes to halal, we are supplied by Royal Foods who cut the chicken in a halal manner. We are God-fearing people and would never deceive our important customers,” he emphasised. During the months of June, July and August, the hotel receives many Arabs who specially come for the chicken dishes.

“One can’t visit Goa and complete a holiday or business trip without visiting O’ Coquiero. Every month, we change our items with novelties to suit our customers’ taste buds. Another important aspect is whenever we receive discount offers from our beverage suppliers, we pass on the benefits to our customers as well,” adds Mr Fernandes. 

The hotel has a seating capacity of 400 people, along with banquet halls which play host to silver weddings jubilees, Christian communion and birthday celebrations.

“The numbers don’t matter at O’ Coqueiro, what matters is the quality. No matter how many guests arrive, we offer a special nook for them. For the immensely private, we have a cosy private dining room from two to eight guests as per seating capacity. For a slightly larger group, say 16 to 20 people, we may present the charming Sala de Banquet. While the Sala de Jantar, a very special dining zone, seats 30 to 40 people comfortably, the Salao, that is the non-air-conditioned dining hall, accommodates up to 100 people as well. If the guest count crosses the 100 mark, we then offer the open air Relvado. There are also other attractions such as live music every Tuesday and Friday nights. We take care of every little detail, so that every big occasion leaves an impression in our customers’ mind,” he points out. 

The hotel’s greatest asset is its employees, he says. There are around 35 employees, mostly Goans, who are trained by Mr Fernandes himself.

What is surprising is that the hotel has never advertised, except on certain festive occasions. The hotel’s popularity has simply spread through word of mouth. “Our good treatment and courtesy policy made us famous globally,” he avers. 

The mining ban seems to have had an adverse effect on hoteliers like him. He explains that the consumption patters of his customers has changed, as people who would order large quantities of items have now cut down two - three items from their usual order list. He laments that the government is unsupportive towards the hotel business by raising taxes which has in turn affected the rates. However, over period of time, customers have taken the hike in rates in their stride, he says. 

“I don’t believe in competition even if somebody starts their business at our entry gate.  It will not hamper our business. We believe in serving the best authentic cuisines to our new and existing customers. It’s my dream to expand the O’ Coquiero brand in other states. I am waiting for an opportunity. In the meantime, we are also planning to set up a big hall to host events for larger crowds,” says Mr Fernandes as he signs off.

Keeping up with trends and tastes, Café Central is going strong in clientele and fortunes, writes SHOMA PATNAIK

Among the older food stores of Panaji selling Indian munchies and snacks, Café Central is a hot pick. It figures as the store most likely to be suggested by residents to newcomers looking for a place to shop. Located in the mid-city, Dr Pissurlekar road or bang opposite the CCP building, it is the place where experts on good eating head to for the evening snack or to buy the longer keeping nibbles for the kitchen cupboard at home. 

Like all bakery shops selling cakes and confectionaries, Café Central emanates a tasty aroma. You get a whiff of it as you near the place from the 18th June Road side. After which the tangy-sweet fragrance engulfs full blast, as you enter the shop. Inside, the place is jam packed with customers, especially if you walk in at peak evening hours from 4.30 p.m. to 6.30 p.m. In these brief hours, orders for eggless cakes, samosas, pao, batawadas are quickly taken and fulfilled until the loaded shelves are nearly cleared out.  

Café Central owes its popularity to three smart partners - Mr Ravindra Gayatonde, Mr Dayanand Bandekar and Mr Kedar Bandekar who have a 50:25:25 stake in the business. But, it is Mr Gayatonde who usually man’s the cash counter, taking time off to get down to talking. Ask him about the secret behind the shop’s fame and he is modest enough to think on the reply. 

It could be “innovation in food items” he says that has translated into regular introducing of new stuff to add to the range. For instance, the mushroom samosa, which is an original recipe or other tasty bites like corn patties or the paneer makhani rolls. 

Another reason for continuing reputation, he thinks is the goodwill earned through years of existence and also the loyalty of regulars. Then of course there is freshness in fare that is its biggest USP. 

Customers point out that like fair-minded local eateries, the café offers value for money. Its rates are affordable and quality maintained with snacks crunchy and crisp. The fillings in the savories are wholesome and taste as good as made at home. 

Café Central has an annual turnover of above Rs one crore, which is growing at a healthy rate. It makes profits after accounting for the salaries of around 30 employees and costs incurred on ingredients and other overheads. The profits are due to volumes as the owners keep a reasonable margin on the selling prices. 

All the food is made in the kitchen behind the store. One would not realize it, but at the rear of the shop there is a fair amount of space to house the cooking area, the store and a small office. “Having all facilities nearby is a great cost saving as it saves on transportation, helps oversee quality and generally help to keep an eye on things,” explains Mr Gayatonde. He points out that in the food business, it is crucial to be vigilant, supervise the kitchen and control quality. 

Like the cafés of Panaji, Café Central has an old history. It was started by the late Mr A S Gayatonde in 1932 when it soon went on to become a happening place of those times. In the old days, the café was located opposite to the municipal garden, Panaji and was famous for its puri bhaji. 

But after moving to present premises, it shifted focus to sells confectionaries and Indian snacks. The shift in address as well as fare has not affected its reputation and fortunes. As for the future, says Mr Gayatonde, “It lies in the new generation of the partners, viz members such as Mr Abhijit Gayatonde and Mr Rahul Bandekar” who are waiting in the wings to add their own touch of innovation to the café.

Recent advances in adhesive tape technology by an India-Ireland joint venture at Kundaim Industrial Estate are creating new opportunities for a wide range of industrial applications in the adhesive tapes market.